After you cut out the ports and smooth the edges, it’s time to place the components.
Again, the hard drive is held by Velcro. You don’t want to just glue it down in case you need to replace it. Also, don’t just glue the Raspberry Pi down. You’ll regret that immediately afterwards when you try to insert the micro SD card.
I used hot glue to bind it to the case and hold everything down. I’m sure there’s plenty of other solutions, but I really like hot glue. It’s fast and very forgiving.
I had to peel the sheathing off the HDMI port saver. It was just too much to try and bend around to fit. I just wrapped electrical tape to protect the wires.
Wiring the power is fairly straight forward. The negative (black) is common, so connect all of the black wires together. Make sure you connect your power plug. The idea is the negative is all tied together while the switch has to be on in order to complete the circuit.
Run the positive (red) of the power plug to the switch. Then from the other lead of the switch, run the rest of the wiring to the devices. The Raspberry Pi uses a micro USB. You can just take a micro USB cable and make a pigtail out of it.
You’ll need to strip back the wiring leading to the hard drive to power it. You don’t want to try and leave the USB port to power the hard drive. There simply isn’t enough to power coming out of the USB port to power the drive with stability. You should see four wires. If it’s a standard wire color scheme red is positive, black is negative, and the other two are for communication. So you just need to focus on the red and black. Leave the other two wired to each other. If you have a powered hard drive you can skip this step. But make sure you have 5V powering the Raspberry Pi and not 12V… unless you like seeing smoke produced.
I added an LED to give it a bit more light when turned on. Just a fun little indicator that the unit is on. If you’re running a 5V system, you can just add a standard LED with a 270 ohm resistor.
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